The short answer
Respraying a car bonnet in the UK typically costs from a mid three-figure sum for a solid colour, rising toward several hundred pounds for a metallic or pearl colour that needs blending into the wings, or where the bonnet has dents, deep stone chips or lacquer peel to repair first. The bonnet is a large, flat, forward-facing panel that takes the brunt of stone chips, sun and lacquer peel, so it is one of the most commonly resprayed panels. The job covers removing or masking trim and badges, repairing any chips or dents, priming, spraying the colour matched to the paint code, lacquering, and blending into adjacent panels on metallic colours. Aluminium bonnets, common on modern cars, can affect the prep but not usually the price hugely.
Bonnets get more wear than almost any panel, which makes them a frequent respray job. The sections below explain what a bonnet respray costs and why.
Bonnet respray at a glance
- Solid colourMid three figures
- Metallic + blendingSeveral hundred pounds
- With chip / dent repairHigher end
- Common causeStone chips, lacquer peel
- Matched byFactory paint code
Why bonnets get resprayed so often
The bonnet sits at the front of the car, facing the road and the sun, so it takes more punishment than most panels. Stone chips from motorway driving peck away at the leading edge and surface; UV exposure fades the colour and degrades the lacquer; and over years the clear coat can start to peel or 'craze', leaving cloudy patches where the lacquer has failed. Because the bonnet is large and the most visible panel from the front, this damage stands out, which is why bonnets are among the most frequently resprayed panels.
A bonnet respray follows the standard panel process: badges and any trim are removed or masked, stone chips and dents are filled and sanded, the panel is primed, the colour is matched to the paint code and sprayed in base coat, then lacquered and polished. Because the bonnet is large and flat, it shows imperfections clearly, so preparation has to be thorough — any chip or ripple left under the paint will be obvious in the light.
| Situation | Typical UK range | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| Solid colour, sound metal | Mid three figures | Straightforward respray |
| Metallic / pearl colour | Mid to high three figures | Blended into wings |
| Stone chip / lacquer peel repair | Higher end | Extra prep before paint |
| With dent repair | Several hundred pounds+ | Bodywork before paint |
Indicative UK ranges for guidance only; cost varies with colour, condition and blending.
Colour matching and blending into the wings
The bonnet sits between the two front wings, so colour matching matters a great deal — a slightly-off bonnet is very noticeable. On a solid colour, a painter can often spray the bonnet edge to edge and the match is good. On a metallic or pearl colour, the bonnet usually needs the colour blended into the front wings so there is no visible step where the new paint meets the old, because metallics fade with age and the flakes catch the light differently.
That blending is why a metallic bonnet respray costs more than a solid one — the painter has to spray part of the wings as well as the bonnet to fade the colour out invisibly. Matching is done from the paint code on the VIN plate or door-shut sticker, and on a fussy metallic the painter may spray a test card and tint the colour to get it exact before touching the car. A cheap respray that skips blending can leave the bonnet looking subtly brighter or a different shade from the wings in certain light.
Stone chips, lacquer peel and catching it early
Most bonnet respray jobs trace back to two things that build up slowly: stone chips and lacquer failure. Stone chips start as tiny specks where grit thrown up at speed knocks through the lacquer and colour to the primer or metal. Individually they are minor, but over years the leading edge of a bonnet can become peppered with them, and each chip that reaches bare metal is a potential rust spot. Touching in chips with colour-matched paint as they appear slows this, but once the bonnet is widely chipped a respray is the only way to make it look right again.
Lacquer peel (clear-coat failure) is the other common trigger. The clear coat protects the colour from UV, and when it degrades it goes cloudy, crazes and eventually lifts in flakes, exposing the colour beneath which then fades fast. Peel cannot be polished out because the lacquer itself has failed — the panel has to be sanded back and resprayed. Catching either problem early is the least costly route: a few touched-in chips or an early polish-and-protect is far cheaper than a full respray, and protecting a sound bonnet with film or regular waxing slows both stone-chip and UV damage. Left alone, both only ever get worse and push the job toward a full repaint.
Respray, wrap or replacement
A respray is the usual fix for a tired bonnet, but there are alternatives worth knowing. A bonnet bra or paint protection film protects a freshly resprayed bonnet from future stone chips, which can be worth adding on a car you intend to keep. A vinyl wrap in a contrasting colour is sometimes chosen for looks, though it is a cosmetic cover rather than a paint repair and does not fix underlying chips or peel.
Occasionally replacement makes sense — if the bonnet is badly dented, creased from an accident, or rusted on a steel bonnet, a sound used bonnet sprayed to match can cost about the same as repairing and respraying a damaged one. For most owners, though, the bonnet's paint has simply chipped, faded or started to peel, and a proper respray with good colour matching and blending restores the front of the car for a sensible price. As with other panels, paying cash is often cheaper than an insurance claim for a single bonnet unless it is part of larger accident damage.
Frequently asked questions
Why does the bonnet need respraying more often than other panels?
The bonnet faces the road and sun, so it takes the most stone chips, UV fading and lacquer peel of any panel. As the largest and most visible panel from the front, that damage stands out clearly, which is why bonnets are among the most commonly resprayed panels on a car.
Does a metallic bonnet cost more to respray than a solid colour?
Yes. A metallic or pearl bonnet usually needs the colour blended into the front wings so there is no visible step where new paint meets old, because metallics fade with age and catch the light differently. That extra blending into the wings adds labour and materials compared with a solid colour that can be sprayed edge to edge.
Can lacquer peel on a bonnet be polished out, or does it need respraying?
Lacquer peel or crazing cannot be polished out — once the clear coat has failed and lifted, the only durable fix is to sand it back and respray the panel with fresh base coat and lacquer. Polishing only works on light surface marks within sound lacquer, not on peeling clear coat.
Sources & further reading
- Which? — car paintwork and bodywork advice
- National Body Repair Association (VBRA) — accredited bodyshops
Figures on this page are typical UK ranges drawn from published sources and depend on your specific car and damage. They are guidance, not a quotation.